Inside North Korea and South Korea's Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) in Panmunjom, 2002. [ONLY LICENSED FOR USE IN THIS ARTICLE]
South Korean and US military personnel steps away from Simon on his first visit to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) in 2002. He says they didn't say hello when greeted.
  • Simon Cockerell, a tour operator, has visited North Korea more than 180 times.
  • North Korea is opening partially to tourism for the first time since the COVID-19 pandemic.
  • He said visiting can be full of pitfalls, like mentioning religion or South Korea.

This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Simon Cockerell, a manager at the travel agency Koryo Tours. It has been edited for length and clarity.

The first time I went to North Korea, I thought I knew what to expect.

I was living in Beijing at the time, which was near North Korea. I figured it would be a bit like China or a bit like Russia.