Spencer Platt/Getty
- Birkenstock raised $1.48 billion in an initial public offering on Wednesday.
- The shoe brand, known for its comfortable cork-sole sandals, has gained popularity in recent years.
- But it wasn't always known as a fashion staple. It was first worn in the US by hippies in the '60s and '70s.
Birkenstock, the shoe brand known for its comfortable cork-sole sandals, raised $1.48 billion in an initial public offering on Wednesday.
The German footwear company had been seeking a valuation as high as $9.2 billion, CNBC reported, but ended its first day of trading with a diluted value of $8.15 billion, according to Bloomberg.
The initial public offering is one more feat in Birkenstock's nearly 250-year history, which began with a family-run business that manufactured insoles. Decades later, the company's orthopedic shoes became a viral fashion trend. Most recently, Birkenstock landed a big-screen moment in the "Barbie" movie.
Here's how the shoe went from "ugly" hippie sandal to coveted fashion statement.
Alain Jocard/AFP via Getty
Church records from the time identified a German cobbler named Johann Adam Birkenstock.
Source: Birkenstock
Florian Gaertner/Getty
In 1896, great-great-grandson Konrad Birkenstock began manufacturing contoured insoles. Before that, insoles were usually flat.
Source: The Cut
John MacDougall/AFP via Getty
In 1925, the company became known for its blue insoles which were called Fussbett, the German word for 'footbed.'
Source: The Cut
Alain Jocard/AFP via Getty
In 1932, Konrad's son Carl created a training program for podiatry and specialty footwear, which was touted by physicians as the 'Carl Birkenstock system.'
Source: The Cut
XAMAX/Getty
The shoe was designed to be a fitness sandal with a deep, flexible footbed made from cork.
Source: The Cut
Kim Komenich/Getty Images
A German-American woman named Margot Fraser discovered the shoes and took them back to California. She sold the shoes in health-food stores, where they appealed to counterculture youths known as hippies.
Source: The Cut
Jeremy Moeller/Getty
They are still the brand's most popular styles today.
Source: Forbes
Fairchild Archive/Penske Media via Getty
It had a brief moment as a subversive fashion statement in the '90s alongside grunge fashion.
Source: Wall Street Journal
Alain Jocard/AFP via Getty
He handed the business down to his three sons: Christian, Stephan, and Alex.
Source: The Guardian
Galuschka/ullstein bild via Getty Images
Then the company sued her for starting her own shoe brand under the Birkenstock family name.
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The company named Markus Bensberg and Oliver Reichert as co-CEOs.
Fairchild Archive/Penske Media via Getty
In 2012, fashion designer Phoebe Philo covered a pair of sandals that looked like Birkenstocks with a mink lining.
Source: The Cut
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The shoes are made with a light, water-resistant synthetic material composed of ethylene-vinyl acetate.
Arno Burgi/Getty
Sales were estimated to have tripled since 2012 to $800 million.
Source: The Cut
Edward Berthelot/Getty
There were Valentino's logo sandals in 2019 and skate brand Stussy's corduroy clogs in 2020.
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Arno Burgi/Getty
L Catterton is backed by luxury conglomerate LVMH and has a history of investing in buzzy consumer brands like Peloton and Everlane.
Source: Bloomberg
Arno Burgi/Getty
Oliver Reichert remained the company's sole CEO.
Source: Fashion Network
Jeremy Moeller/Getty
The shoes were in such high demand that some resellers charged double the retail price.
Source: Insider
T Brand via Birkenstock
In 2022, Birkenstock's customer demographic was 30% baby boomers and 31% millennials, according to its SEC filing.
Source: Birkenstock SEC filing
David Paul Morris / Stringer
The shoes, which had the imprint of Steve Jobs' feet, circulated through exhibitions across Milan, Berlin, and New York.
Source: Insider
Warner Bros.
According to the IPO filing, revenues from Birkenstock's Arizona shoe increased at a compound annual growth rate of 24% between 2018 and 2022.
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The offering could value Birkenstock at more than $8 billion, Bloomberg reported.
About 90% of Birkenstock customers come through unpaid channels, according to a consumer survey conducted in May 2023 that was referenced in the filing. The top three sources of brand awareness were customers hearing about the brand from a friend, seeing someone wearing it, and growing up with it.
Source: Bloomberg, Birkenstock SEC filing
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In September, Birkenstock made its IPO filing with the SEC. In the filing, the company said it sold approximately 30 million units in 2022, and it reported 2022 revenue of 1.2 billion euros, or about $1.27 billion at the current exchange rate.
Sebastian Gollnow/Getty
In the filing, Birkenstock reported that its average US customer owns 3.6 pairs of its shoes.
Donato Sardella/Getty Images for Louis Vuitton
In an October filing, Birkenstock named Alexandre Arnault, the son of billionaire LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault, to the company's board of directors. Bernard Arnault backs the private equity firm L Catterton which owns a controlling stake in Birkenstock.
Richard Drew/AP
Birkenstock expected its stock to reach $46 per share, but shares opened at $41 when it began trading on the NYSE Wednesday. The company raised $1.48 billion in the initial public offering.
Source: Barron's, New York Times