a close up of a person wearing a Birkenstock sandal on the NYSE trading floor
Traders wore Birkenstock sandals on the New York Stock Exchange floor in honor of the company's IPO.
  • Birkenstock raised $1.48 billion in an initial public offering on Wednesday. 
  • The shoe brand, known for its comfortable cork-sole sandals, has gained popularity in recent years.
  • But it wasn't always known as a fashion staple. It was first worn in the US by hippies in the '60s and '70s.

Birkenstock, the shoe brand known for its comfortable cork-sole sandals, raised $1.48 billion in an initial public offering on Wednesday. 

The German footwear company had been seeking a valuation as high as $9.2 billion, CNBC reported, but ended its first day of trading with a diluted value of $8.15 billion, according to Bloomberg.  

The initial public offering is one more feat in Birkenstock's nearly 250-year history, which began with a family-run business that manufactured insoles. Decades later, the company's orthopedic shoes became a viral fashion trend. Most recently, Birkenstock landed a big-screen moment in the "Barbie" movie. 

Here's how the shoe went from "ugly" hippie sandal to coveted fashion statement.

Birkenstock's history goes as far back as 1774
a sign of the Birkenstock logo hangs from a building
Birkenstock's logo is an upside down foot.

Church records from the time identified a German cobbler named Johann Adam Birkenstock.

Source: Birkenstock

Johann Adam handed the trade down
close up of Birkenstock sandal soles
Birkenstock was founded in 1774.

In 1896, great-great-grandson Konrad Birkenstock began manufacturing contoured insoles. Before that, insoles were usually flat.

Source: The Cut

In 1902, Konrad Birkenstock developed a flexible arch support that fit inside shoes
Birkenstock sandals on display are seen through a store window
Birkenstock shoes have a molded cork insole.

In 1925, the company became known for its blue insoles which were called Fussbett, the German word for 'footbed.' 

Source: The Cut

As an orthopedic business, Birkenstock featured designs that were rooted in function over form.
an exterior shot of a Birkenstock store in Paris
Birkenstock has store locations around the world.

In 1932, Konrad's son Carl created a training program for podiatry and specialty footwear, which was touted by physicians as the 'Carl Birkenstock system.'

Source: The Cut

In 1963, Carl's son Karl Birkenstock introduced the company's first shoe, the Madrid
a Madrid Birkenstock sandal is displayed in a gallery exhibit
An original Madrid shoe on display in a gallery exhibit.

The shoe was designed to be a fitness sandal with a deep, flexible footbed made from cork.

Source: The Cut

Birkenstock began selling its shoes in the US in 1966
Margot Fraser, importer of Birkenstock Footprint Sandals, posing amidst the dangling feet of four people sporting the many varied styles of this brand of clumpy sandal at her distribution center
Margot Fraser is credited with bringing Birkenstock to the US.

A German-American woman named Margot Fraser discovered the shoes and took them back to California. She sold the shoes in health-food stores, where they appealed to counterculture youths known as hippies. 

Source: The Cut

In the '70s, Birkenstock released its iconic shoes, the Arizona sandal and the Boston clog
a close up of a woman wearing Birkenstock sandals on a cobblestone street
Birkenstock's shoes are named after places like Arizona, Madrid, and Boston.

They are still the brand's most popular styles today.

Source: Forbes

Though it had its moments, Birkenstock remained not more than a hippie staple for decades
models on the runway and backstage at the Perry Ellis Spring 1993 fashion show
Models in the 90s during fashion week runway shows.

It had a brief moment as a subversive fashion statement in the '90s alongside grunge fashion.

Source: Wall Street Journal

In 2002, Karl Birkenstock left the company
a view through a window of a Birkenstock sign inside a store
Birkenstock's global headquarters are in Neustadt, Germany.

He handed the business down to his three sons: Christian, Stephan, and Alex.

Source: The Guardian

Christian's ex-wife, Susanne, was credited with transforming the brand's image
Susanne Birkenstock holding a sandal
Susanne Birkenstock started her own shoe company called Beautystep.

Then the company sued her for starting her own shoe brand under the Birkenstock family name.

In 2012, the Birkenstock family gave up control and became a corporation
Co-CEO's of Birkenstock, Markus Bensberg and David Kahan pose together
Markus Bensberg and Oliver Reichert were co-CEOs of Birkenstock until Bensberg stepped down in 2021.

The company named Markus Bensberg and Oliver Reichert as co-CEOs.

More brands copied the Birkenstock style, provoking newfound attention to the classic shoe
composite image of model on the runway and close up of fur covered sandal from Celine Spring 2013 collection
The runway show for Celine Spring 2013 collection.

In 2012, fashion designer Phoebe Philo covered a pair of sandals that looked like Birkenstocks with a mink lining.

Source: The Cut

In 2015, Birkenstock came out with its EVA sandals, a new take on its classic cork and leather styles, sold for about half the price
close up of a woman wearing white Birkenstock EVA sandals on the street
EVA Birkenstocks are water-resistant.

The shoes are made with a light, water-resistant synthetic material composed of ethylene-vinyl acetate.

In 2018, Birkenstock made 25 million pairs of shoes
close up of a Birkenstock sole during the manufacturing process
Birkenstock insoles are made with cork pulp.

Sales were estimated to have tripled since 2012 to $800 million.

Source: The Cut

Many luxury brands and designers have collaborated with Birkenstock to release limited-edition styles
close up image of a woman wearing black fuzzy Birkenstock sandals on the street
Birkenstock has designed its classic styles with fabrics like shearling and corduroy.

There were Valentino's logo sandals in 2019 and skate brand Stussy's corduroy clogs in 2020.

In 2020, Birkenstock sales surged as more people ditched uncomfortable shoes early on in the pandemic
several Birkenstock sandals are displayed on a table in Nordstrom
Nordstrom sells Birkenstocks.

Lyst named the Arizona sandal the world's hottest shoe of the second quarter.

Source: Insider, Lyst

In 2021, private equity firm L Catterton bought Birkenstock in a deal that valued the company at $4.9 billion
two hands hold a Birkenstock shoe as it is manufactured
Birkenstock shoes are made in Germany.

L Catterton is backed by luxury conglomerate LVMH and has a history of investing in buzzy consumer brands like Peloton and Everlane.

Source: Bloomberg

That year, Markus Bensberg stepped down
a wide shot inside a Birkenstock factory
A view inside Birkenstock factory.

Oliver Reichert remained the company's sole CEO.

Source: Fashion Network

In 2022, the Boston clog went viral on TikTok and sold out online after they were worn by celebrities like Kendall Jenner
a close up of a woman wearing Birkenstock clogs on the street
The Boston clog is one of Birkenstock's closed-toe shoes.

The shoes were in such high demand that some resellers charged double the retail price.

Source: Insider

That year, the brand, whose shoes had long been derided as unattractive, released a three-part video campaign with the New York Times called "Ugly for a Reason" to inform customers about foot health.
two feet walk and one is up with dirt on it text overlay says
A screenshot from the company's video campaign.

In 2022, Birkenstock's customer demographic was 30% baby boomers and 31% millennials, according to its SEC filing. 

Source: Birkenstock SEC filing

Steve Job's old Birkenstocks sold at auction for more than $200,000
Steve Jobs
Steve Jobs founded Apple and was the company's CEO from 1997 to 2011.

The shoes, which had the imprint of Steve Jobs' feet, circulated through exhibitions across Milan, Berlin, and New York.

Source: Insider

Searches and sales surged after Birkenstock's Arizona sandal was featured in this year's blockbuster "Barbie" movie.
A Birkenstock shoe in
In the "Barbie" movie, Barbie must choose between a high-heel and a Birkenstock.

According to the IPO filing, revenues from Birkenstock's Arizona shoe increased at a compound annual growth rate of 24% between 2018 and 2022.

Source: Footwear News, Bloomberg, Birkenstock SEC filing

In August, Birkenstock's owner announced plans for an initial public offering.
two women shop for Birkenstocks in a Nordstrom store
Birkenstock sought a valuation of up to $9.2 billion.

The offering could value Birkenstock at more than $8 billion, Bloomberg reported.

About 90% of Birkenstock customers come through unpaid channels, according to a consumer survey conducted in May 2023 that was referenced in the filing. The top three sources of brand awareness were customers hearing about the brand from a friend, seeing someone wearing it, and growing up with it.  

Source: Bloomberg, Birkenstock SEC filing

Last year, Birkenstock sold 30 million pairs of shoes and generated $1.3 billion in revenue.
three blue strap Birkenstock sandals are on display
Birkenstock sandals come in a variety of styles and colors.

In September, Birkenstock made its IPO filing with the SEC. In the filing, the company said it sold approximately 30 million units in 2022, and it reported 2022 revenue of 1.2 billion euros, or about $1.27 billion at the current exchange rate.

Source: Birkenstock SEC filing

The average Birkenstock customer in the US owns more than 3 pairs
a close up of the blue bottom tread of a Birkenstock shoe in front of a black background
The bottom of a Birkenstock shoe has a signature imprint.

In the filing, Birkenstock reported that its average US customer owns 3.6 pairs of its shoes.

The company named a billionaire's son to its board of directors
Alexandre Arnault Bernard Arnault
Alexandre Arnault (left) is the son of billionaire Bernard Arnault.

In an October filing, Birkenstock named Alexandre Arnault, the son of billionaire LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault, to the company's board of directors. Bernard Arnault backs the private equity firm L Catterton which owns a controlling stake in Birkenstock.

Birkenstock's IPO missed the mark — shares opened 11% below their offer price.
Birkenstock team rings the bell at the New York Stock Exchange
The Birkenstock team rings the bell at the New York Stock Exchange.

Birkenstock expected its stock to reach $46 per share, but shares opened at $41 when it began trading on the NYSE Wednesday. The company raised $1.48 billion in the initial public offering.

Source: Barron's, New York Times

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